Tsum Valley Trek

 

With stunning scenery, untrammeled terrain and lovely tracks of pristine wilderness, the Tsum Valley is a must visit for the hardy more adventuress traveler seeking a respite from Nepal's more popular areas.  The valley follows the spectacularly churning Syar Khola which tumbles down from Tibet . The trail rises and falls numerous times as it winds precipitously past towering waterfalls, tight gorges and rustic stone villages.  The glistening white capped peaks of the Ganesh Himal, Sringi Himal and Baudha Himal range shimmer above.

Numbering about 4000 the “Tsumbas” are primarily Buddhists of Tibetan origin whose culture      and ancient traditions remain relatively unchanged.  Slowing your pace will allow a glimpse of             their warm hospitality and good sense of humor. Colorful celebrations mixing silky costumes   and fearsome masks are possible to stumble across.  The flap flapping of prayer flags, booming    throaty horns and distant deep dong of Yak bells make for an enchanting mixture. There are 18        villages. Some are tightly packed and clinging to the edge of steep cliffs and others more spread      out with a hobbity hamlet like feel. Each has a Gumba worth exploring and nearby are long stretches of hand-carved Mani stones.  Also worth visiting are several very old monasteries.

Suggested Trekking Itinerary
           
16 -21 days (includes 7 days on the Manaslu Circuit ).  Mostly camping but where possible home stay or teahouse. 

Arughat – Sotikhola

SotiKhola -Machekhola

Machekhola -Thulo Dhugga

Thulo Dhugga-Philim

Philim – Lokpa          4 hrs, (1 night Lokpa)  First the path passes through open terrain with terraced barley fields then a narrow gorge with waterfalls.  This is a stunning section of trail, steep and precipitous with views of the river through open pine carpeted with golden grass.  Passing through a simple gateway the trail veers right up into the Tsum Valley.  Zig zagging upward through dense forest and then opening up again to steep terraces one arrives at the two      structure hamlet of Lokpa.  Lunch at Lokpa.
Lokpa -  Ripche         6 hrs (1-2 nights Ripche) 
From Lokpa descend down through forest and into another narrow gorge where the trail clings just to the side and above the river.  Massive grey boulders punctuate the rivers path and and a crashing roar fills the ears.  The first real views of snow capped peaks are glimpsed through a canopy of leaves.  Leaving the river the trail gains and loses elevation while steadily rising through bamboo, blue pine and rhododendron trees.  Pass through a simple gateway and  get a spectacular views across and up the lower Tsum Valley.  After traveling about three hours lunch is taken at Gumling a tiny crossroads where the trail splits and continues up each side of the valley.  Thereafter the trail  roughens climbing steeply through jungle then suddenly  flattening on to a high plateau.   Gateway chortens mark the lower end of Ripche, a linear and tightly packed medieval village with stone lined fields on one side and a precipitous drop on the other. A gumba sits high on a hill above and the views back across the village and to Chumling across the valley are spectacular. Camp is set up in the courtyard of a local home.

Ripche – Dzong         7 hrs including lunch @ Gho Village (1-2 nights Dzong)
The trail narrows and dives back into jungle passing over two very deep side gorges on shaky  cantilever bridges. Thrilling.  Look for monkeys up in the trees. Passing through Domje and then crossing the Syar Khola climb up to Gho for lunch.  From Gho it is a long circuitous climb up the open and sunny Northeast side of the valley.  The trail here gains 600 meters while clinging to the edge of at times very steep slopes.  Flattening abruptly and opening up into a wide valley we pass through Chokung Paro (a large village with police checkpoint) and just beyond the picturesque village of Dzong.  The pretty Gumba slightly elevated on a rock above the village has recently been repainted.  With terraced fields a neighboring pine forest and views of the Ganesh Himal range Dzong is a nice place to spend an extra day.  Camp is set up in the courtyard of a local home.

Dzong – Nile              6-7 hrs including lunch at Phurbe (1 night Nile)
From Dzong the way is more gradual and at Nakyu we cross the river and continue on the right side of the valley in order to visit the nuns at Rachen Gumba Monastery. Inside are some beautiful religious life size statues as well as exquisitely painted chairs.  Continuing on the terrain becomes drier and we leave most trees behind.   Next we pass a cylindrical Stupa with glancing eyes and a gilded pinnacle and a little further along the gateway to Chule & Nile.  Here there are nice views both up and down the valley.  An afternoon walk to the Gumba will reward you with a beautiful birds eye view of Chule village roofs glistening in the setting sun. Camp is set up in the courtyard of a local home.

Nile – Mu Gumba      4 hrs  (1-2 nights Mu Gumba)
This is a shorter day with mostly level terrain until Chumga where the track rises up to Mu Gumba Monastery located at the highest and farthest point in the Tsum Valley.  The surroundings are utterly stark.  Steep slopes bisect steep slopes and continue into infinity. Gray rivers of scree snake hundreds of feet down between enormous ridges.  Clanging bells announce the arrival of Yak caravans. Visit the neighboring and oldest Dhephyudoma Nunnery Gumba or climb a few more hours up hill to a spectacular viewpoint at Dupchet.  Camp or if possible stay in a monastery room.

Mu Gumba – Dzong    8 hrs including lunch @ Phurbe (1 night Dzong)
Descending we stop at Phurbe for lunch then cross the river to explore the two cave Gumbas (Chi Phu and Milarepa Piren Phu) on the opposite side of the valley near Burji.  The trails to both are steep but  worth the walk.  Chi Pu is smaller and has some interesting paintings not seen elsewhere.  From Milarepa there is a great view down to a colorful flag pavilion.
Dzong – Gumba Lungdang              7-8 hrs including lunch @ Domje (1-2 nights Gumba Lungdang)
From Dzong we descend and cross the river to Domje where we eat lunch and visit the young nuns at a Tibetan Herbal Medicine school.  Leaving from just behind the school the first few miles of  the trail to Gumba Lungdang is steep and strenuous.  Small chortens with flags intermittently mark the way.  The trail passes through a variety of enchanting forests some dripping with moss others ancient and gigantic.  Leaving the forest and looking back we get our first views of Mt. Manaslu.  Traversing across grassy fields a nice view is seen of Gumba Lungdang nunnery nestled  between surrounding peaks.  Arrive and visit with the playful and mischievous nuns. The following morning day hike to Base Camp (with a packed lunch).

Gumba Lungdang – Chumling        6hrs including lunch @ Domje (1-2 nights Chumling)
Descend and cross back over the Syar Khola to Rainjam.  The next stretch is a spectacular walk along cliff edges with views across the valley to waterfalls crashing around polished boulders.  Arrive in Chumling a beautifully situated village with houses spread out between green terraced fields. Camp in the Teahouse courtyard near main trail.  Spend the day sitting near the main trail and visiting with curious locals or hike up to Chumchet.

Chumling -  Philim    6hrs including lunch @ Lokpa (1 night Philim)

Philim-Tatopani   6-7hrs

Tatopani-Soti Khola  6-7hrs

Soti Khola-Arughat Bazaar 6-7hrs

 

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