Ama Dablam Information:
Ama Dablam 6812m, normal route is easier than North West ridge. More steep climbing almost from ABC to TOP. You need 4500 meter fixed rope. For those who seek less popular routes, Ama Dablam has wealth of other clamed and untried possibilities. In May 1979 Jeff Lowe made a remarkable solo ascent of the wildly fluted South Face, emerging just beneath its vertical headwall on to the original route. That autumn a French expedition led by Louis Absorber climbed the North Ridge, which has since been repeated at least three times.
It is fine route, harder than the South -West Ridge, with rock at the start, and an extravagantly corniced snow ridge near the top. While the French were on the North Ridge, disaster struck a New Zealand team attempting the West Face, when a huge section of the upper hanging glacier crashed down, killing Ken Hyslop and badly injuring peter Hillary and his other two companions. This face would appear to be very dangerous but it has since been climbed, solo by the well-known Czech climber Miri Smid in 1987.
Two routes were added in 1985. In November, Hooman Aprin and Randy Harrington (USA) with the Spaniard Martin Zabaleta climbed the South-East or (Left) Dwarfed by the immense ice cliffs of the Dablam, a lone climber abseils back to the top camp from the summit ice field. The day this photo was taken a huge section of the Dablam peeled away, blasting the whole of the West Face. (Alex Mc Nab).
(Below) A typical situation on the South-West Ridge, near the base of the Yellow Tower , Behind is the famous silhouettes of Kantega (left) and Tramserku. ( Bill O'Connor)
Lagunak Ridge, Again, this ridge was slightly harder than the original route with the main difficulties on snow mushrooms and flutings, where the ridge peters out against the South-West Ridge. The following month saw another accomplished alpine-style ascent, this time of the North-East Face. Tucked away at the back of the mountain, normally seen only by people climbing on Island Peak or Lhotse , or from high on Everest, this secret face was a formidable and potentially dangerous challenge.
The danger was minimised by tackling the face in winter, with daytime temperatures well bellow freezing; the technical difficulties were subdued by the very experienced team of Carlos Buhler and Michael Kennedy. They followed the prominent curving ice rib up the centre of the face. The difficulties were predominantly on ice over rocks, waterfall ice and unconsolidated snow.
International Ama Dablam Expeditionmay
2011
Fixed Departure 20 October 2011
17 October 2011 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu
18 October 2011 Day 02: Kathmandu
19 October 2011 Day 03: Prepared Expedition & Briefing in Ministry of Tourism
20 October 2011 Day 04: Fly to Lukla (2840) and trek to Phakding (2610) - Camp or Lodge
21 October 2011 Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3440) - Camp or Lodge
22 October 2011 Day 06: Namche - Thyanboche Monastery (3860) Lodge
23 October 2011 Day 07: Thanboche – Dingboche (4410) camp or Lodge
24 October 2011 Day 08: Dingboche – Ama Dablam North Ridge Base Camp (5200)
25 October – 11 Nov. 2011 Day 09-25: Acclimatization/Climbing period for Ama Dablam 6812m.
12 Nov. 2011 Day 26: Ama Dablam SW Ridge - Namche Bazar
13 Nov. 2011 Day 27: Namche - Lukla – Lodge
14 Nov. 2011 Day 28: Fly Lukla - Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
15 Nov. 2011 Day 29: Kathmandu
16 Nov. 2011 Day 30: Final Departure
Cost: Group join basis (Group size minimum 6 person)
2-3 Persons, per person USD 3000.00
5 - 7 Persons, Per Person USD 2500.00
Per climbing Sherpa USD 1300.00
Cost includes
1. 4 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & Breakfast (3 star)
2. Permit fee of Ama Dablam 6812m. Expedition
3. Food for Trekking and expedition period
4. Expedition crew: Climbing Guide, Climbing Sherpa, Cook, and Cook helper
5. Porters or Yak porter Lukla to Base camp & Base camp to Lukla
6. Kathmandu –Lukla – Kathmandu flights with Cargo 50 KG per member
7. Equipment allowance, daily allowance for Liaison officer, expedition crew
8. Insurance for Nepalese expedition crew.
9. Tent for 1 person – 1 tent
10. Mat, dining tent, Toilet tent, Mess tent, Store tent, Table and chairs trekking for the expedition
11. Local transportation in Kathmandu (Airport-hotel-airport)
12. Emergency Oxygen, Mask and regulator (If use, you have to pay)
13. Well come dinner
Cost not includes
1. PERSONAL equipment for climbing & trekking
2. Personal & medical Insurance of expedition
3. Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu
4. Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter incase needed
5. Bar Bills & beverage
6. Garbage Deposit USD 2000.00 (Sharing of the total person) and Deposit fee will be not refunded if the clients (climber) don’t take back their garbage to Namche Bazaar & Kathmandu.
Note: If each climbing member have more than 50 KG for load and they have to pay extra porter as well as cargo.
Why go with us? We have been safe and successful multiple times, providing the best possible summit success chance (no compromises) at a value price. Everything we have works, and works well. We have great radios with extra batteries and they even take AA batteries, so never run out. Our laptops work, we have power for charging cameras etc sorted out, and the best weather forecasts. We have consistent leadership and our Sherpa are loyal, organized and honest, and have worked. Many times successfully summit around 8000m peaks, including Everest multiple times and also Ama Dablam. We have good relations with all the administrative staff, and especially the liaison officers, and have a proven record of successful expeditions.
If you take Personal climbing Sherpa:: In our normal expedition you carry your personal equipment; sleeping bag, mattress/s, down suit, snacks, clothing while the sherpas carry the meals, gas, stoves, tents. The team climbs together between camps and a climbing sherpa will also accompany you to the summit. This is a good level of service, and suits most people, however if you want an additional climbing sherpa to assist with your personal equipment and to climb with you all the time, we can provide.
What is included in Kathmandu:: We pick you up at the airport and provide a single hotel room so you can spread gear out, and our expedition packing area with a huge grassy area is just around the corner. Because we provide all tents, deny meals on the mountain etc, you should be able to get to Kathmandu without extra freight charges.
Base Camp :: At base camp we have a permanent kitchen with cook and helpers, large dining tent and smaller ones as required, solar power for recharging, radio contact with every camps on the mountain, and internet. We provide separate North face brand’s tent for per member. We provide three time good hygienic meals a day and afternoon tea, plus all hot drinks and boiled water for drinking.
We have good solar power systems providing 12v, 115v and 230v, so you can charge all digital cameras, video cameras, battery packs and laptops.
We have several laptops available for exclusive use of our teams. Email via Outlook is free. Alternatively for heavier laptop users please bring your own but you must have a 12v adaptor to charge it. Note that not all laptops work at 5000m+; solid state drives do though.
Weather reports:: With good internet we have access to a variety of weather reports, and we subscribe to paid weather forecasts too. Judging the weather is one of the most important issues surrounding climbing any mountain.
Website updates:: We provide updates using our own website so regardless of whether you have your own or not your family and friends will know what is happening. You will be amazed at the level of interest.
Emergency evacuation:: We have emergency oxygen at Base camp, plus full medical kits.
Medical::We has a comprehensive medical kit at Base camp. You should be prepared with a small personal med kit for on the mountain. We used to dealing with altitude issues and intestinal problems and other minor medical issues.
Environment:: We remove all garbage from BC, and this includes toilet waste. This is then disposed of by the SPCC Namche.
Departure:: Although we all travel in together, you can leave separately provided you are 2-3 climbers travelling together. |
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Travel Insurance
It is a condition of travelling with us that you must be fully insured, including air rescue services. We also recommend you take out cancellation insurance. You should be careful in choosing a policy, however, as some make special exceptions for adventure travel.
Acclimatization
Everest Expedition itinerary is planned with a high degree of minimization of AMS(Acute Mountain Sickness). Going up too fast causes a medical condition serious enough to kill. The higher the altitude the less oxygen there is in the air. For example, there is more than 30% less oxygen than at sea level. Your body needs many days to adapt to this so for a safe trek it absolutely essential to allow for sufficient time for acclimatization. Sensible planning is therefore required to minimize the risk of AMS. We advise specially the guest(s) with known heart or lungs or blood diseases to consult their doctor before traveling. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite or stomach disorder are symptoms of AMS.
Warning
Any kinds of mountain are not "easy" or even "straightforward". It is a quite difficulties mountain so if something wrong or bad judgment or even bad luck can be fatal up there. Even with the best companies, including us, the risk of frostbite / death is real. |
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