Everest Expedition (8848m) Tibet

Mount Everest is the highest mountain in the world. Its elevation of 29,035 feet (8,850 meters) was determined using GPS satellite equipment on May 5, 1999. It was previously believed to be slightly lower (29,028 feet /8,848 meters), as determined in 1954 by averaging measurements from various sites around the mountain. The new elevation has been confirmed by the National Geographic Society (See the National Geographic Society's Mount Everest site for more information).
The first seven attempts on Everest, starting with a reconnaissance in 1921, approached the mountain from Tibet, where a route to the summit via the North Col and North Ridge seemed possible. All were unsuccessful. George Mallory, who spearheaded the first three expeditions, lost his life with Andrew Irvine during a failed ascent in 1924. Unsuccessful attempts continued through 1938, then halted during World War II. By the war's end, Tibet had closed its borders, and Nepal, previously inaccessible, had done the opposite. Starting in 1951, expeditions from Nepal grew closer and closer to the summit, via the Khumbu Icefall, the Western Cwm, over the Geneva Spur to the South Col, and up the Southeast Ridge. In 1953 Edmond Hillary and Tenzing Norgay reached the summit.
Expedition To Himalayas
Since the first successful ascent, many other individuals have sought to be the first at various other accomplishments on Everest, including many alternative routes on both the north and south sides. Italy's Reinhold Messner has climbed Everest twice without oxygen, once in four days. He is also the first to solo climb Everest, which he did in 1980. Ten years earlier, Yuichiro Miura of Japan had been the first person to descend the mountain on skis. In 1975, Junko Tabei, also of Japan, was the first woman to climb Everest. The first disabled person to attempt Everest was American Tom Whittaker, who climbed with a prosthetic leg to 24,000 feet in 1989, 28,000 feet in 1995, and finally reached the summit in 1998. The record for most ascents belongs to Sherpa Ang Rita, who has reached the summit ten times.
Overall, more than 600 climbers from 20 countries have climbed to the summit by various routes from both north and south. Climbers' ages have ranged from nineteen years to sixty. At least 100 people have perished, most commonly by avalanches, falls in crevasses, cold, or the effects of thin air.
Climbing on Everest is very strictly regulated by both the Nepalese and Chinese governments. Permits cost thousands of U.S. dollars ($50,000 for a seven member party in 1996), and are difficult to obtain, and waiting lists extend for years. Treks to Everest base camp, minus the summit attempt, are becoming increasingly popular on both the north and south sides of the mountain. On the north side, a Buddhist monastery stands at the foot of the Rongbuk Glacier, beneath Everest's spectacular north face. The monastery is one of two whose locations were selected specifically to allow religious contemplation of the great peak. The other is the Thyangboche Monastery in Nepal. The once-active Rongbuk monastery in Tibet has required much rejuvenation from the destruction it experienced following China's invasion of Tibet. Mount Everest is also known by the Tibetan name Chomolangma (Goddess Mother of the Snows), and by the Nepali name Sagarmatha (Mother of the Universe).This Expedition groups fly to Lhasa from Kathmandu. But the crews travel by automobile to Lhasa; and hole climbing equipments of the member are carried by the by truck with care of the crews. And all of your crews will be met there in the base camp itself.
KATHMANDU - Lhasa (Saturday & Tuesday): Morning about at 10:00 A.M. you will be heading to the Kathmandu airport 8KM far from City. To fly for Lhasa, This must be perhaps the most beautiful flight in the world from Kathmandu to Lhasa crossing above the world highest peak mount Everest and the other charismatic Himalayan rages. After one hour 10 minutes, you reach Gongar airport in Tibet. From airport to Lhasa city, it is 90 km; you will go there either by bus or Jeep; and reach in the hotel and to take rest for the acclimatization.
LHASA: One day or 2 days will be Sightseeing time frame and excursions to POTALA PALACE, NORBULINKA, THE JOKHANG and the surrounding BAKHOR market, DREPUNG & SERA MONASTERIES.
LHASA - GYANTES: 280 KM. Many busy villages, yaks, mountain sheep, and lakes are on your route on this day and; you should cross the famous Brahma-Putra River (Son of Brahma god, the creator of this cosmos) also at this time. Now passing over Karo La and Kamba passes, 5,010m & 4,794m respectively, you final destination awaits Ghyantse.
GYANTSE - Lhatse 200km. The morning is for you to explore the Tibet’s second largest city Xigatse for one hour, including the world famous Tashilumpo Monastery. In the afternoon, you will arrive in Lhatse from where the road to MT KAILASH is bifurcated.
Lhatse to Everest Base camp: 200 km. Now this is the last day to reach in your Everest Base camp by crossing the Maphu La pass 5220m; and after reaching Shegar city way to Everest Base camp is intersected.
We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more and it depends on our members feeling. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp and advance base camp fixed at the different places are kept there permanently until finishing the whole expedition. Now 2 days walk towards the ABC starts from here.
After walking 2 days, we reach to ABC 6400m along with the Yaks. From ABC, the route goes to the east Rongbuk (Everest Base) glacier and after that there is an easy snow slopes to the North Col at 7000m, where camp 1 is situated on snow. 
After that there is a long reasonably angled snow slopes to climb 7400m , where we should put camp 2 on snow. The route from Camp 2 to camp 3 is the series of the rocks, which is a little bit difficult, But again there is a very easy terrain to walk ahead to set up camp 3.
This camp 3 is at the height of 7900m on the rock.  
The route again goes through a series of rocky climbs, and then there is a median angled snow slopes where we have to climb on mixed rocks and snow until we reach camp 4 at 8400m. Now this camp is on the rock but some times ago, it was covered by snow. To reach there, we have to fix the ropes on climbing but there are safety lines, which provide you safe place when you are tired and the wind seems windy to blowing there. This route is mostly very windy especially between Camp 2 to camp 3
Camp 4 is the last camp for Everest summit from North East Ridge. Now the route is mixed with rocks and snow steps. This step is quite steep in many places so you require very considerable care for yourself, to your clothing and oxygen equipments. 
After that, the North East Ridge is wide but we have to climb through small steps with a little bit height until we go ahead where we fix the rope. Above there the climbing is a little bit exposed but it is easy again to reach ahead in the second steps. After the second steps the route is in the series of small nude ridge, which is some times covered with snow.
After that route with large boulder where we should use ladder to climb ahead, again after that section of the route, we should fix the rope. Above these steps, the route is relatively easy with gentle ground until we reach at the third steps. Now to go head it is not the series of ridge as the previous steps but we should use the fixed rope to the Col before the final summit of snow slopes. Again there are quite steep and fixed ropes to go ahead to the buttressed rocks from where there is a short section of corniced ridge to reach on the Summit of Everest.

 

International Everest Expedition - Through Lhasa

Entry Lhasa/Exit Zhangmu
Fixed Departure
31 March 2011


Iitinerary expedition.

28 March 2011 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1350m.) transfer hotel
29 March 2011 Day 02: Kathmandu
30 March 2011 Day 03: Kathmandu
31 March 2011 Day 04: Fly to Lhasa and Transfer to hotel
01 March 2011 Day 05: Lhasa
02 April 2011Day 06: Lhasa
03April 2011Day 07: Drive to Gyantse
05 April 2011 Day 08: Drive to Lhatse
05 April 2011 Day 09 Drive Chinese Base Camp,
06 April 2011 Day 10 Chinese Base Camp 5400m
07 April 2011 Day 11 Chinese Base Camp
08April 2011Day 12 Chinese Base Camp to Middle Camp load carry by Yaks,
09April 2011Day 13 Middle Camp - Advance Base Camp of Everest 6400m] 
10 April to 31 May 2011 Day 14-65 Climbing Period of Everest 8848m.]
01 May 2011 Day 66 ABC - Base Camp
02 June 2011 Day 67 Drive to Zhangmu
03 June 2011 Day 68 Drive Zhangmu to Kathmandu.
04 June 2011 Day 69 Kathmandu
05 June 2011 Day 70 Final Departure
Cost
Person, Per Person Euro 7200 .00
Climbing Sherpa guide - Per Climbing Sherpa Euro 3000.00 (If required)

Cost includes:
1. 5 night’s accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star hotels).
2. Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
3. Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
4. Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Lhasa, Gyantse & Tingri & Zhangmu (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
5. Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
6. Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
7. Per person's (50 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from Base Camp to ABC
8. Per person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the BC
9. Kathmandu - Lhasa fly & drive to (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members& Truck for the equipment
10. Peak permit for Everest North Col 8848m.
11. Tibet Visa & Travel permit
12. Liaison officer & Interpreter
13. Nepalese crew' insurance
14. ABC - Oxygen for Emergency but you must pay for its use.
15. Expedition T-shirts with Expedition label
16. Solar panel for battery charging
17. Gas hider in Dining tent
18. Welcome dinner

Cost does not include:
1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
2. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
3. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
4. Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
5. International departure tax.
6. Personal Expenses.
7. Medical and rescue insurance.
8. Personal Climbing equipment.
9. Bar bills & Beverage.
10. Medicine and first aid expenses
11. Garbage Deposit USD 500 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
12. Walkie-Talkie.
13. Extra yak, Per Yak's USD 150.00 will be charge till to 40 KG load.

Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$ 400.00 
Mask & Regular: US$ 500.00
Satellite phone: US$ 700.00 per set (Personal use from climber)
Rescue Jeep : USD 700 Per Jeep

 

Importance information about Everest Expedition

01

Other names/spellings

Sagarmatha (Nepal)
Chomolangma (TIbet)
Qomolangma Feng

02

Elevation (meters)

,8850m

03

Location

86' 56' E

04

Latitude

27' 59' N

05

Longitude

29,035

06

Best Climbing Months

April, May (pre-monsoon)

07

Year First Climbed

 1953

08

First Climber(s)

Sir. Edmund Hillary and tensing Norgay Sherpa

 

The First Conquers of the Mount Everest
English climbers were the first ones to conquer the Mouth Everest debacle. Before World War II, three English expeditions were sent to the north of Himalayas, which is the Tibetan side of the Mount Everest. Twice the climbers reached the altitude of 8,600m, but unfortunately failed to summit.

The southern side of the Mount Everest,that is the Nepalese side of the mountain was opened to the mountaineers after World War II. After the occupation of Tibet by China, the mountaineering expeditions toward Mount Everest began from the Nepalese side. On 29th May, 1953, after three decades of immense attempts, man finally reached the highest-lying point on Earth. The winning team of the first climbers of the Mount Everest consisted of Newzealander Edmund Hillary and Nepali Tenzing Norgay Sherpa.

Various Routes to Mount Everest
There had been 15 routes tried out by various trekkers and climbers to the Mount Everest.
1. First Summit - May 29, 1953: Tenzing Norgay & Sir Edmund Percival Hillary of New Zealand via the South- East Ridge Route.
2. May 25, 1960: Chinese team makes first Summit of Mount Everest via the North Ridge.
3. May 22, 1963: The first ascent of the Mount Everest West Ridge, actually the West Ridge/North Face by Willi Unsoeld and Tom Hornbein. Also the first traverse as they descended the South East Ridge/ South Col.
4. September 24, 1975: Dougal Haston and Doug Scott Summit via the South west face.
5. May 13, 1979: Andrej Stremfelj and Jernej Zaplotnik reached the Summit via the true West ridge and descend via the Hornbein Couloir.
6. May 10, 1980: Tsuneoh Shigehiro and Takashi Ozaki made the first full ascent of the North Face (Japanese Couloir to the Hornbein Couloir) of Mount Everest.
7. May 19, 1980: Jerzy Kukuczka and Andrzej Czok followed the South Pillar on on the right hand edge of the Southwest Face.
8. August 20, 1980: A solo ascent by Italy's Reinhold Messner 8/20/80 via the North Col to the North Face and the Great Couloir. He climbed for three days entirely alone from his base camp at 6,500m without the use of artificial oxygen via the North Col/North Face route.
9. May 4, 1982: 11 Russia climbers reached the Summit via the South West Pillar left of the Great Central Gully on the Southwest Face.
10. October 8, 1983: Lou Reichardt, Kim Momb, and Carlos Buhler reached the Summit via the East or Kangshung face.
11. October 3, 1984: Australians Tim Macartney-Snape and Greg Mortimer reached the Summit via the North Couloir without bottled oxygen.
12. May 20, 1986: Canadian Sharon Wood became the first North American woman to Summit Mount Everest and climbed the new route of the west Shoulder from the Rongbuk Glacier and continued on to the Summit via the Hornbein Couloir.
13. May 12, 1988: British Stephen Venables, climbed a line to the left of the 1983 Kangshung Face route. Actually the East Face-South Col-SE Ridge. Venables was the only member of the expedition to reach the Summit.
14. May 11th, 1995: The first ascent of the Northeast Ridge on May 11th, completed by Kiyoshi Furuno & Shigeki Imoto of Japan, Dawa Tshering Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, and Nima Sherpa.
15. May 20, 1996: The first ascent of the North-Northeast couloir by Peter Kuznetzov, Valeri Kohanov and Grigori Semikolenkov.
 

 

 

What is fixed rope?
Rope fixed in the beginning of expedition and remains till last of expedition in mountain for ascending and descending purpose for climbers. Climbers attach the Jumer in fix rope so that they don't slip and fall down. Rope used in mountain as fixed rope is reliable, strong and technique proved. Everest expedition north col is fixed rope start just after glacier 6800m till to summit.
What is crevasse whole?
Crevasse is empty space or deep crack a very thick layer of ice.
What is Ridge?
The pointed or little flat part between the two slopes of mountain is ridge. Usually climbers walk through ridge to climb. In Everest, most off the climbing trail is from ridge. Only below and above camp three, some part climbers have to climb through wall.
What is Zoomer?
Jummer is metal apparatus use for ascending and descending process in climbing. It is attach with harness or Jummer belt and fix with fixed rope. When you move it, it goes up and it helps you to move up or hang up.
What is main Rope?
It is rope tie in your body and with 2- 3 or 3-4 climbers together in difference of 4m each. Main rope is use for safety for climbing or descending in mountain.
What is a Crampon?
It is metal apparatus with 10 to 12 points fixed on the bottom of plastic boots or climbing boots for climbing in ice and snow.


Why go with us? We have been safe and successful multiple times, providing the best possible summit success chance (no compromises) at a value price. Everything we have works, and works well. We have great radios with extra batteries and they even take AA batteries, so never run out. Our laptops work, we have power for charging cameras etc sorted out, and the best weather forecasts. We have consistent leadership and our Sherpa are loyal, organized and honest, and have worked. Many times successfully summit around 8000m peaks, including Everest multiple times. We have good relations with all the administrative staff, and especially the liaison officers, and have a proven record of successful expeditions.
Personal climbing Sherpa:: In our normal expedition you carry your personal equipment; sleeping bag, mattress/s, down suit, snacks, clothing while the sherpas carry the meals, gas, stoves, tents and oxygen. The team climbs together between camps and a climbing sherpa will also accompany you to the summit. This is a good level of service, and suits most people, however if you want an additional climbing sherpa to assist with your personal equipment and to climb with you all the time, we can provide.
  What is included in Kathmandu:: We pick you up at the airport and provide a single hotel room so you can spread gear out, and our expedition packing area with a huge grassy area is just around the corner. Because we provide all tents, oxygen, deny meals on the mountain etc, you should be able to get to Kathmandu without extra freight charges.
Tibet:: We handle all the paperwork for the Chinese visa and all the Tibet travel and climbing permits. All sightseeing, accommodation and meals are included.
Base Camp and ABC:: At base camp we have a permanent kitchen with cook and helpers, large dining tent and smaller ones as required, solar power for recharging, radio contact with ABC and camps on the mountain, and internet. We provide 1 BC tent per member (a two-three person tent). We provide three good meals a day and afternoon tea, plus all hot drinks and boiled water for drinking. At ABC we provide the same.
We have good solar power systems providing 12v, 115v and 230v, so you can charge all digital cameras, video cameras, battery packs and laptops.
We have several laptops available for exclusive use of our teams. Email via Outlook is free. Alternatively for heavier laptop users please bring your own but you must have a 12v adaptor to charge it. Note that not all laptops work at 5000m+; solid state drives do though.
Weather reports:: With good internet we have access to a variety of weather reports, and we subscribe to paid weather forecasts too. Judging the weather is one of the most important issues surrounding climbing Everest.
Website updates:: We provide updates using our own website so regardless of whether you have your own or not your family and friends will know what is happening. You will be amazed at the level of interest.
Emergency evacuation:: We have emergency oxygen at ABC and BC, plus full medical kits. If you have to leave the mountain early alone or as two people then there will be a charge of $800. If you are a group of three or four then there is unlikely to be a charge but it may be a while before your baggage arrives in Kathmandu.
Medical::We has a comprehensive medical kit at BC and ABC. You should be prepared with a small personal med kit for on the mountain. We used to dealing with altitude issues and intestinal problems and other minor medical issues.
Environment:: We remove all garbage from ABC to BC, and this includes toilet waste. This is then disposed of by the Chinese. We plan to remove toilet waste from at least North Col too.
Departure:: Although we all travel in together, you can leave separately provided you are 3-4 climbers travelling together.

Langtang trek warm up:: If your fitness isn't as good as you would like then going for a trek prior to Everest helps. This could be trekking the south side of Everest (14-17 days actual trekking) but the issue is the flight out, and there is a chance that you could be delayed for several days, and if that does happen, it is a major problem. It is safer to plan a trek to Langtang, where the access is by road.
You are welcome to teahouse trek by yourself but it also makes sense to trek with one of the climbing sherpas, get to know them, and they will help with the arrangements too. You simply pay them a daily wage ( US$20 split between however many of you go) and pay your own way in the lodges, so it is a real budget trip. I would suggest a trip of 10 days actual travelling and trekking, and that gives a couple of days up at the 4000m lodge village of Kyangjin, so day trips to higher altitudes are possible.
Travel Insurance
It is a condition of travelling with us that you must be fully insured, including air rescue services. We also recommend you take out cancellation insurance. You should be careful in choosing a policy, however, as some make special exceptions for adventure travel.
Acclimatization
Everest Expedition itinerary is planned with a high degree of minimization of AMS(Acute Mountain Sickness). Going up too fast causes a medical condition serious enough to kill. The higher the altitude the less oxygen there is in the air. On the summit of Everest Base Camp (5357m/17575ft) for example, there is 50% less oxygen than at sea level. Your body needs many days to adapt to this so for a safe trek it absolutely essential to allow for sufficient time for acclimatization. Sensible planning is therefore required to minimize the risk of AMS. We advise specially the guest(s) with known heart or lungs or blood diseases to consult their doctor before traveling. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite or stomach disorder are symptoms of AMS.
Warning: Everest is the highest mountain on the planet and despite some of the publicity it is not "easy" or even "straightforward". It is a very serious peak and bad judgment or even bad luck can be fatal up there. Even with the best companies, including us, the risk of frostbite / death is real.

 

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