International Friendship Cho-Oyu Expedition 2011

Fixed departure 13 April 2011

Austrian first climbs Cho Oyu in 1954. The Indian and German team also climbed this peak in 1958 and 1964 respectively. Till to date many expedition teams have successfully reached on its summit. The year 2004 was regarded as the Golden jubilee of this Cho Oyu Mountain in the field of expedition. The golden jubilee ceremony was organized by Nepal Mountaineering Association with grand fanfare and jubilantly. There were about 400 climbers from different region of the World during this golden jubilee ceremony and most of them made the summit.
Most of the Cho Oyu expedition teams climb from Tibet side due the easy technique-climbing route from there. Since 2007 our company "Expedition to Himalaya" is also conducting the expedition from Tibet side. We also had our teams to the Golden jubilee Cho Oyu Expedition in autumn 2004.

 

Meeting and climbing information

Expedition begins when you arrive to Kathmandu where you meet our staffs of Expedition to Himalaya in the airport and transfer you to hotel Vaishali in thamel. Next day, we make introduction section with other climbing members & Expedition crews. Since then we make your Tibet visa and other necessary document for Cho Oyu Expedition.
After 3 day, we drive you towards Nepal-Tibet border up to the Friendship Bridge through Arnico Highway; where the Chinese liaison officer and Chinese transportation meet us there. The expedition gears go by truck but the members there Travel by Land cruiser 4wd or with comfortable Minibus. We take time to acclimatize with one night at Zhangmu (2300m) and two nights at Nylam (3750m), which also gives us the chance to trek up high hills for acclimatization. 
Next day we drive to Tingri (4350m) where we spend further two nights acclimatizing. Then we drive Tingri to Base camp 5000m along the rough way with jerking & bouncing experience through grassy plain which leads up to the Chinese base camp.
We set up our camp at Chinese Base Camp and stay two nights or more, which depends on the feeling of our members. We also make schedules of the yaks by that time. Base camp is a temporary but comfortable affair with Nepali cook and dining tent. Now the two-day walk towards the advance base camp (ABC) begins.
ABC is in the heart of the Himalayas at 5700m; surrounded by celestial peaks. There is also the high pass called Nangpa La nearby which, an old but still used yak track trading route between Nepal and Tibet exists.
From ABC, we can see the superb scene of Cho Oyu . This is the main base camp and we plan to stay there for the longer duration also to look the favorable situation for the expedition. Every person gets his or her own tent. Our Service will be full board up to ABC and after that the climbers should manage all services by themselves.
From ABC it is several hours of tough walking on a vague path over moraine-covered glacier to the start of the mountaineering properly.
Camp 1 is either situated more or less on the ridge at 6400m and the real mountaineering starts from here. The ridge is now soft and easy enough for climbing, then it broadens out and you should climb successive huge steps, several of which probably require fixing a rope up there. You should fix a new rope in co-operation with other members on the mountain. Normally one rope is used for ascent and another for descent. Although the route is crevassed but normally these creates no problems
Camp 2 is on the edge of a large plateau at 7125m although you can carefully assess where to put the rope. Depending on conditions and fitness you may attempt the summit from here, or you may establish a light Camp 3 across the plateau and up on a minor ridge at 7550m. Above Camp 3, there are two rocky steps where you fix another set of ropes prior to our summit ascent.
Finally, you will start early in the morning from camp 3 for summit. Above the rock bands, the slopes are still steep and you may take a line to fix there, depending on conditions, however once on the crest of this ridge the terrain is straightforward although it is a long haul to the summit plateau. 
The panorama is breathtakingly magnificent, including Everest 8848m, Lhotse 8501m, Nuptse 7855m, Chamlang 7319m, Ama Dablam 6856m and other peaks of the Everest region to the east and south. To the west, there are the Melungtse and Gauri Sankar massifs and to the north, there is all Tibet area. It is normal to descend to Camp 2 from summit and to continue down to the ABC.
Legend
Regarding to the name of this Cho Oyu , the legend says, in Tibetan language, Chomo means the goddess and Yu means the turquoise. So adding these two words, it was called Cho Oyu . Also it is called the "Turquoise Goddess" as per the Tibetan dialect. Another derivation of the name is called it as the bald god as well.
Climbing Sherpa
We facilitate highly professional, well trained and qualified climbing Sherpas for your expeditions. Many climbers avoid Sherpa guides for the climbing, so because of this, they have been found to facing many hindrances on their way. If you take Sherpas along with you on the expedition, they are very useful in your each and every step of support, which makes your climbing easier to restore your strained energy; and it gives you vigorous strength for your next day's climbing. Most of the groups, who have gone with the Sherpa guides on the expedition, are found to be succeeded as per our past experiences. So we suggest you to operate your expeditions along with the Sherpa guides.
Booking
If you like to book us for the expedition you can log on to our web info@expeditiontohimalayas.com, for online booking you should deposit us USD 500.00 bank transfer in our bank account in advance which enables you for your secured seats. After this deposition, your expedition will be final confirmed; and in case if you cancel the expedition, the deposition will not be refunded. This is the terms and conditions of our company.

 

International Cho Oyu (8201m) Expedition 2011

Entry/Exit Zhangmu Fixed Departure 13 April 2011

Itinerary

10 April 2011 Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1350m.) transfer hotel
11April 2011 Day 02: Kathmandu
12 April 2011 Day 03: Kathmandu  
13April 2011 Day 04: Drive to Kodari & transfer Zhangmu 2300m.
14 April 2011 Day 05: Drive Nylam 2750m]
15 April 2011 Day 06: Nylam rest for acclimatization
16 April 2011 Day 07: Drive Tingri 4340m
17 April 2011 Day 08: Rest of day for acclimatized 
18 April 2011 Day 09: Drive to Chinese Base Camp 5000m. Camping l 2010 Day 10: Chinese Base Camp
19 April 2011 Day 11: Prepared load to Yak for Advance Base Camp. 
20April 2011 Day 12: Base Camp - Middle camp with Yaks
21 April 2011 Day 13: Middle Camp - Cho Oyu Advance Base Camp 5700m.
22April – 17May 2011 Day 14-39: Climbing Period for Cho Oyu 8201m.
18 May 2011 Day 40: Advance Base camp - Chinese Base camp
19May 2011 Day 41: drive Base Camp - Zhangmu
20May 2011 Day 42: Drive Zhangmu - Kathmandu
21May 2011 Day 43: Kathmandu
22May 2011 Day 44: Kathmandu
23 May 2011 Day 45: Final Departure

Cost:
Single climber, Per Person Euro 7300.00 (guided full board up to top)
Per Person Euro 7000.00 (minimum 2 Person for guided full board up to top)

Cost includes:
1. 5 Nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (3 star hotel).
2. Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself.
3. Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
4. Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam,Tingri (bed- breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
5. Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
6. 2 climber - 1 climbing Sherpa
7. 1 Single climber - 1 climber Sherpa
8. 3 high tents North Face or same quality - Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3
9. Single climber -3 high tents North Face/same quality - Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3
10. 2 Oxygen (8 litters) bottle for summit, Mask & regulator per member
11. Climbing food, cooking gas, stove, cooking equipment
12. Tents for climbing Sherpa Guide (Camp 1, 2, 3)
13. Custom clearance for expedition's cargo
14. Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
15. Per person's (60 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from BC-ABC
16. Per person's (50 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC- BC
17. Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment
18. Peak permit for Cho Oyu 8201m.
19. Tibet Visa & Travel permit
20. Liaison officer & Interpreter
21. Nepalese crew' insurance
22. Satellite phone (Pay call).
23. We provide Gas hitter in Dining room
24. Welcome dinner after back from Expedition

Cost does not include:
1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
2. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
3. Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
4. International departure tax.
5. Personal Expenses.
6. Medical and rescue insurance.
7. Personal Climbing equipment.
8. Bar bills & Beverage.

Half board Service up to Advance Base camp only.
Cost:
Single climber, Per Person Euro 4700.00 (survive up to Advance Base Camp during the expedition period)
Per Person Euro 4500.00 (minimum 2 Person for service up to Advance Base Camp during the expedition period)
Climbing Sherpa, Per Sherpa is Euro 2,400.00 (If required)
Cost include:
1. 5 nights accommodation in Kathmandu with bed & breakfast (4 star hotel)
2. Expert professional Nepalese expedition crews like Cook, Kitchen boy, ABC guide and mountaineering gears till to the ABC are provided; and our crews get all expedition facilities from our office itself
3. Tibet visa & Travel Permit for the expedition crew
4. Full board hotel in route to Tibet side Zhangmu, Nyalam & Tingri (bed & breakfast, Lunch, dinner)
5. Base Camp - Advance Base Camp 1 tent for 1 person (North Face brand)
6. Dining tent, Table, Chairs, toilet tent, Mess tent & Kitchen tent
7. Per person's (40 KG) Load is carried by the Yak till to the from BC-ABC
8. Per person's (30 KG) Load is carried by the Yak on the way back to the ABC to the BC
9. Kathmandu - Zhangmu - Base Camp - Zhangmu (vice versa) are provided the Mini bus/Jeep for the members & Truck for the equipment [ Mini-Bus, Jeep & Truck].
10. Peak permit for Cho Oyu 8201m
11. Tibet Visa & Travel permit
12. Liaison officer & Interpreter
13. Nepalese crew' insurance
14. ABC - Oxygen for Emergency but you must pay for its use.
15. Satellite phone (Pay call).
16. Walkie-Talkie
17. Welcome dinner.

Cost does not include:
1. Air travel to and from Kathmandu.
2. Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu.
3. Laundry, postage, telephone calls, and all other items of personal nature.
4. Entry visa and Re-entry visa for Nepal.
5. International departure tax.
6. Personal Expenses.
7. Medical and rescue insurance.
8. Personal Climbing equipment.
9. Bar bills & Beverage.
10. Garbage Deposit US$ 300 (Sharing of the total person) Deposit fee will be not refund if clients (climber) don't take back their garbage.
11. Conservation fee Euro 20 per person.
12. Medicine and first aid expenses
13. Extra yak, Per Yak's US$ 150 will be charge till to 50 KG load.

Note: After the Expedition, Tipping system is well come for expedition crews from your generosity if you are happy with the staffs of the company. We wish you a happy and successful climbing.
Our motto is to appease our clients. Thanks.
Extra service if required:
Russian oxygen 4 litters: US$400.00
Mask & Regular: US$500.00
Film Permit: Euro 14000.00 (Small Portable movie camera is free)
Rescue Jeep: US$ 700.00 Per Jeep

Why go with us? We have been safe and successful multiple times, providing the best possible summit success chance (no compromises) at a value price. Everything we have works, and works well. We have great radios with extra batteries and they even take AA batteries, so never run out. Our laptops work, we have power for charging cameras etc sorted out, and the best weather forecasts. We have consistent leadership and our Sherpa are loyal, organized and honest, and have worked. Many times successfully summit around 8000m peaks, including Everest multiple times and also Cho Oyu. We have good relations with all the administrative staff, and especially the liaison officers, and have a proven record of successful expeditions. Personal climbing Sherpa:: In our normal expedition you carry your personal equipment; sleeping bag, mattress/s, down suit, snacks, clothing while the sherpas carry the meals, gas, stoves, tents and oxygen. The team climbs together between camps and a climbing sherpa will also accompany you to the summit. This is a good level of service, and suits most people, however if you want an additional climbing sherpa to assist with your personal equipment and to climb with you all the time, we can provide.  Advance Base camp:: At  advance base camp we have a permanent kitchen with cook and helpers, large dining tent and smaller ones as required, solar power for recharging, radio contact with ABC and camps on the mountain, and internet. We provide 1 ABC tent per member. We provide three times good meals a day and afternoon tea, plus all hot drinks and boiled water for drinking. We have good solar power systems providing 12v, 115v and 230v, so you can charge all digital cameras, video cameras, battery packs and laptops. We have several laptops available for exclusive use of our teams. Email via Outlook is free. Alternatively for heavier laptop users please bring your own but you must have a 12v adaptor to charge it. Note that not all laptops work at 5000m+; solid state drives do though. Website updates:: We provide updates using our own website so regardless of whether you have your own or not your family and friends will know what is happening. You will be amazed at the level of interest. Emergency evacuation:: We have emergency oxygen at Advance Base Camp , plus full medical kits. If you have to leave the mountain early alone or as two people then there will be a charge of $700. If you are a group of three or four then there is unlikely to be a charge but it may be a while before your baggage arrives in Kathmandu. Medical::We has a comprehensive medical kit at BC and ABC. You should be prepared with a small personal med kit for on the mountain. We used to dealing with altitude issues and intestinal problems and other minor medical issues. Environment:: We remove all garbage from  camp one and ABC this includes toilet waste. This is then disposed of by the Chinese in Base camp. Departure:: Although we all travel in together, you can leave separately provided you are 3-4 climbers travelling together.

 

Langtang trek warm up:: If your fitness isn't as good as you would like then going for a trek prior to Everest helps. This could be trekking the south side of Everest (14-17 days actual trekking) but the issue is the flight out, and there is a chance that you could be delayed for several days, and if that does happen, it is a major problem. It is safer to plan a trek to Langtang, where the access is by road. You are welcome to teahouse trek by yourself but it also makes sense to trek with one of the climbing sherpas, get to know them, and they will help with the arrangements too. You simply pay them a daily wage (US$20 split between however many of you go) and pay your own way in the lodges, so it is a real budget trip. I would suggest a trip of 10 days actual travelling and trekking, and that gives a couple of days up at the 4000m lodge village of Kyangjin, so day trips to higher altitudes are possible. Travel Insurance It is a condition of travelling with us that you must be fully insured, including air rescue services. We also recommend you take out cancellation insurance. You should be careful in choosing a policy, however, as some make special exceptions for adventure travel. Acclimatization Cho Oyu Expedition itinerary is planned with a high degree of minimization of AMS(Acute Mountain Sickness). Going up too fast causes a medical condition serious enough to kill. The higher the altitude the less oxygen there is in the air. In the Cho Oyu advance Base Camp is (5700m) for example, there is 40% less oxygen than at sea level. Your body needs many days to adapt to this so for a safe trek it absolutely essential to allow for sufficient time for acclimatization. Sensible planning is therefore required to minimize the risk of AMS. We advise specially the guest(s) with known heart or lungs or blood diseases to consult their doctor before traveling. Mild headaches, fever, loss of appetite or stomach disorder are symptoms of AMS. Warning: Cho Oyu mountain is the6th highest mountain in the world on the planet.  And despite some of the publicity it is not "easy" or even "straightforward". It is a very serious peak and bad judgment or even bad luck can be fatal up there. Even with the best companies, including us, the risk of frostbite / death is real.

 

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